The coronavirus pandemic hit life in so many ways, large and small.
Arguably, it was the relatively modest things in life that (after the threat to life) were felt the most.
One such “casualty” of the global health crisis was something that had become a huge hit at one well-known resto in Brussels.
That was the weekly brunch at L’Ultime Atome at the heart of the bohemian Saint-Boniface district.
The lockdown caused by the crisis and subsequent “social distancing” meant that the weekly brunch outing for many folk was extinguished.
It is only the last few weeks that the owners of the restaurant have felt sufficiently confident to resume the Sunday brunch.
And, judging by the results so far in the six week or so since it re-started, there really is a real hunger for it.
In the first week, there were 65 covers but, by 20 October this has soared to over 200, a huge increase and reflective of the enduring, post pandemic popularity of brunch at this lovely eatery.
The brunch is served from around 10.30am until mid-afternoon every Sunday, during which time the normal card is temporarily suspended while the resto’s loyal army of customers tuck into some wholesome, healthy and very tasty dishes.
Brunch, of course, is a combo of breakfast and lunch and this is reflected on the offerings here, ranging from a particularly popular charcuterie (eggs, salmon etc), quiche and veggie lasagne (another customer favourite), to hot dishes like carbonade, pasta and sausage and beans. There’s a ready supply of nice crepes along with a good selection of deserts. Worth noting that everything here is home made and also that the selection changes each week (so come ready for some nice surprises).
It is all self service and, as it’s the popular all-you-can-eat concept (€35per adult and €20 for children, drinks excluded), come prepared for a good, filling meal. You can accompany some very good food with some equally great Belgian beers (and wines).
Credit to the likes of chef Georgi and other members of “Team Ultime” for their hard work and dedication.
It’s a pretty huge place, seating about a total of 300 both inside and on a delightful terrace, overlooking the nearby church.
The area given over to the brunch offerings can be used during the rest of the week for groups and events.
The friendly manager, Benoit Spietsaert, explained that things have been tough for the resto, along with many others in these post-pandemic times.
While restos at the pricey “high end” of the market and those at the “other end” of the scale, such as fast food outlets, have been able to stabilise their business after the pandemic those “in the middle” have had it tough and continue to do so.
Not only that but competition in this particular area is more keen than it ever was, says Benoit
“When I started here 20 years ago,” he adds, “there were just two other restaurants in the immediate area and, now, there are a multitude of them and that naturally makes it tough.”
That’s one reason why L’Ultime Atome has just introduced a brand new menu which heavily features classic Belgian dishes such as meatballs in tomato sauce, Americain and vol-au-vent. It’s a deliberate attempt to further bolster the unique character of this place and strengthen its place in what is, as Benoit points, a fiercely competitive sector.
The resto is a lovely place to eat and not just for the food. It really does ooze character and a timeless charm, partly due to the neo Art Deco interior which comes courtesy of d’Armand Jonckers, a well-known Belgian artist.
It first opened way back in the mid 1980s and has been extended three times since then. To have survived so long in what is a notoriously fickle industry is quite some achievement and reflects well on its owners, including Michel Thuy who launched it in 1986.
For those who may be wondering where the unusual name came from, well, that still remains something of a mystery. The rumour is that the “hippy-types” who used to frequent the place at the start were so fed up with the way the world seemed to be hurtling towards a nuclear war that they wanted to send a “no to nukes” ultimatum message (get it?).
This resto has been called an “urban legend” and the “lungs” of Saint-Boniface and, while such hyperbole might be misplaced at some places, that is certainly not the case here – and that includes the “Ultime Atomic Brunch.” Recommended.
L’Ultime Atome, Rue Saint-Boniface 14, Brussels
02 513 4884
www.ultimeatome.be
