Era: Chef Yonatan Cohen and his team master class

By
Martin Banks
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406

Together Magazine was blown away by the variety & quality era continues to offer Brussels

As I walk into Era on Rue du Fossé aux Loups, it feels like stepping into a living work of art—where timeless architecture meets contemporary elegance, perfectly framing Chef Yonatan Cohen’s newest culinary expressions.

A New Culinary Narrative

The evening unfolds with light, vibrant starters. First comes the Hamachi tartare, paired with sourdough, a whiff of horseradish cream, sour crème, and bursts of trout roe (€14). I love how the ocean’s freshness is sharpened by that milky tang and soft crunch—each spoonful a delicate tease.

Next, the Chopped rump steak, served on grilled brioche and crowned with wild garlic kimchi and velvety bone marrow hollandaise (€16). It’s a powerhouse of flavours—rich beef, umami-forward kimchi, and buttery hollandaise all harmonizing on that toasted brioche base.

The Grilled lettuce dish (€16) surprised me—romanesco lettuce kissed by the fire, bathed in a creamy Charmoix cheese sauce, and elevated with mustard herbs and furikake. It’s comfort food refined: smoky, cheesy, fresh-herb bright, with a final umami pop from the furikake.

Then comes Asparagus (€18): both green and white spears elegantly arranged, cloaked in classic sauce à la Flamande and wild garlic. It’s a springtime encore—even as the seasons shift, the dish speaks of renewal and excitement in every bite.

For a heartier palate there’s the Cured fish platter (€26): a selection of sustainably cured fish, accented with seasonal organic vegetables, rye toast, and tangy pickles. It’s both rustic and refined—a lesson in flavour and texture.

The evening crescendos with two mains. First, Pork collar steak (€32), beautifully tender, resting on silky potato purée, baby broccoli, XO sauce, and an umami-rich chicken miso stock. The interplay of succulent pork and savory broth is subtle yet unforgettable. Then the Baked cod, served with bright broad beans, plump mussels, a tangy buttermilk reduction, and vibrant green garlic—the dish strikes me as elegant, nourishing, and elevated without being ostentatious.

The Service & Ambience

As I progress through each dish, the service remains attentive yet unintrusive: wine and water arrive at just the right moment, ideas and menu insights are shared with warmth, and I feel both seen and softly guided through the culinary journey. The interior—an interplay of velvet upholstery, brass accents, and soaring ceilings—provides the perfect backdrop for this evolving narrative.

Private Dining—An Intimate Touch

What truly caught me on this visit is Era’s private dining room. I was invited for a sneak peek before dinner: a beautifully lit space that comfortably accommodates up to 17 people around a single, elegantly set table. The atmosphere is cozy but hushed enough for genuine conversation—ideal for birthday parties, business dinners, or that romantic celebration. For just €95 per person, guests can enjoy a thoughtful set menu (mirroring the current à la carte highlights) with bespoke attention from the service team and sommelier.

But Era goes even bigger: for larger gatherings, the restaurant offers full venue privatization for up to 75 guests. Imagine curating a menu around seasonal showstoppers like the celeriac agnolotti or coal-kissed Hamachi, pairing with organic wines, all within this grand 19th-century space. There’s a sense of exclusivity, yet the vibe remains relaxed and welcoming—a balance few venues pull off so gracefully.

Whether it’s an intimate table for 17 or a landmark celebration for 75, Era ensures you can tailor décor, lighting, and timing to match your vision. And of course, Chef Cohen and his team stand ready to adapt the menu to your preferences—perhaps opting for a full seafood‑centric tasting or a bold meat‑and‑veg lineup.

Final Reflections

Sitting back after the final cod bite, I reflect on how Era continues to evolve. The dishes today—beauty on a plate, surprising but grounded, playful yet refined—crafted from quality ingredients, are coherent with Era’s philosophy: creative yet respectful, innovative yet familiar.

And those private spaces? They elevate Era from a dining destination into a venue for memory-making. I walked out planning not just my next individual visit, but imagining wine-glasses clinking in that private room—birthdays, small business dinners, family gatherings. There’s an intimacy and elegance that deserves its own spotlight.

In the end, visiting Era right now feels like stepping into a new chapter—one where the menu is fresh, the setting is timeless yet personal, and the private rooms add a thoughtful new dimension. I can’t wait to book the space for my own celebration (and of course, dive back into that agnolotti).

Practical Info

Era truly marks a new chapter in Brussels’ dining scene—an inspired fusion of historical elegance, creative cuisine, and warm hospitality. The private dining options are the perfect way to bring friends, colleagues, or loved ones into this memorable experience.

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