Art Deco was THE artistic movement of the 1920s and 30s. A veritable star of the Roaring Twenties, its aesthetic flourished in furniture, the decorative arts and building facades.
Sadly, with the passage of time much of Brussels’ Art Deco establishments have diminished.
But the good news is that there is one leading restaurant where examples of this unique aesthetic still exist.
That place is called Le Café Maris, something of an institution, and it is possibly quite unique for its Art Deco.
The restaurant fairly recently underwent a major facelift with the ground floor totally refurbished and given a whole new (contemporary) look.
But the owners were determined to retain at least some of the building’s Art Deco features and Belle Époque atmosphere. And this wonderful architectural style is still evident on the first floor which is used for functions, such as birthday parties and weddings, and can accommodate up to 40 people.
What you might call the “old and the new” – chic, modern look of the main resto and the Art Deco space upstairs (complete with the original stained-glass windows) – makes for an interesting and curious contrast at this, one of the genuine fixtures of the Brussels restaurant scene.
With some fine weather now with us, it’s also worth noting that there is another spot to also dine here: the terrific terrace which is rather large, seating over 100 people.
The owners chose to modernise the place a couple or so years ago in order to try and keep pace with what is an ever-evolving and changing horeca sector.
The move was made all the more necessary by the damaging impact of the awful coronavirus pandemic, an event still be felt by the restaurant sector.
The good news is that, judging by a bustling and healthy footfall at Café Maris, the changes can be deemed a success.
That is also down, of course, very much to the continuing high calibre of the cuisine at this resto which has always been noted for its culinary offering. Everything at this brill brasserie is fresh, largely homemade (sauces are prepared on-site) and seasonal, further reinforcing its reputation for excellence.
The resto is located at Fort Jaco, right on the busy Chaussee de Waterloo (with excellent direct bus links and train links to Brussels just nearby) and with the wonderful Foret de Soignes behind it (nice for a short walk before/after a meal here).
Another impressive feature of this place is l’ecailler, situation directly outside, where its plentiful selection of seafood is prepared either to eat inside or to take away. Worth noting that Francisco Gomes, the head seafood counter manager, is the 2024-25 Belgian champion no less.
Its menu, which runs to 14 pages no less, includes the seafood platters (or trays) it offers, including oysters, clam, mussel, shrimp and gambas. These are available for one or two persons and are in addition to a great choice of seafood to be ordered separately.
Starters on the card include beef carpaccio with virgin oil, parmesan shavings and rocket; that great Belgian tradition, a duo of grey shrimp and cheese croquettes (a personal favourite) and roasted marron bone and salt crust.
Fish is a mainstay of this resto (which seats 85 inside) and the a la carte selection includes some equally delicious dishes such as grilled or simply meuniere sole served with mashed potatoes; another old-style Belgian classic – tomato stuffed with North Sea grey shrimp and served with fries – and also fish soup, which comes with provencal sauce and croutons.
While many come here for the fabulous fish, meat lovers, of course, are not forgotten with some very nice offerings also on the card like a prime cut of grilled Irish beef with fresh fries, blanc de coucou de Malines.
For those unfamiliar with it, coucou de Malines is one of the most well-known and appreciated Belgian farm-raised chickens; it is the culinary specialty par excellence of Brussels. Raised in the best conditions, this poultry offers tender and flavoursome meat of exceptional quality.
To round off a thoroughly enjoyable meal, you might well also be tempted by one of the delectable desserts, including hot chocolate glazed profiteroles, crème brulee or good old apple pie.
There is also a top notch wine list (the Pinot Gris is recommended and makes for a terrific supplement for the fish), together with a nice choice of Belgian beers (like the award-winning Triple Karmeliet).
Considering the very high quality, the prices are very reasonable, another reason why this place, which has a non-stop kitchen, is consistently busy and retains its popularity after many years among what is a particularly diverse international clientele.
That’s not all: the service (by waiters dressed the “old fashioned” way in black and white uniforms) is very professional and pleasant.
Entering Le Café Maris is a bit like leafing through a memory album (not least for this writer as it was one of the very first restos I ever visited when I moved to Belgium). The atmosphere is unique, full of palpable history and the aromas of cooking promise a truly enjoyable experience.
And that, basically, is what you are guaranteed at this lovely place: a great dining experience.
Le Café Maris
Chaussee de Waterloo 1260, Brussels
02 374 8834
