Filippo La Vecchia has lived through a pandemic, economic crisis, terrorist attacks and is still smiling
The reason for that is that his restaurant, Osteria Romana, has now acquired that rather rare quality – “institution” status.
It is not a title that has come easily and,as Filippo is at pains to point out, major challenges stilly lie ahead.
For now, though, he is happy to look forward to a well-earned summer break, knowing that his restaurant has successfully negotiated issues that have, sadly, seen off lots of eating establishments in Belgium in the last few years.
One reason for his success is the sheer quality and authenticity of the Rome-inspired food that is served at Osteria Romana.
Filippo oversees it all, of course, but he is ably assisted by hard working colleagues like Turkish-born Gokhan and Jeremy, a Belgian.
Giuseppe, the head chef, and Gianluca, sous-chef, are an essential part of Osteria Romana’s success, and they deserve recognition for their hard work and dedication alongside the rest of the team
The menu features classic Roman dishes, plus cacio e pepe, delicious and a “must try”. It contains grated pecorino romano and black pepper with tonnarelli or spaghetti.
You can choose from the lovely a la carte – divided between starters, a selection of hams and 1st and 2nd courses – or maybe go for the 6 course degustation option which is designed for 2 people and costs €110 pp.
But the one dish that is served up to about 50 per cent of Filippo’s customers is his signature one:carbonara, which comes in varying sizes according to your taste and wallet.
There is also a “kobe carbonara”, very similar but “elevated” with kobe beef instead of the traditional pork.
This is a very recent evolution here and comes, explained Filippo, in response to queries for such a thing from some of his clients.
It shows how flexible Filippo is in his approach, another reason for his continuing success.
But, as he also further explained, the resto sector in Brussels and Belgium is facing increasingly perilous times.
There are two big issues: one economic, the other the rapid emergence of what he calls “concept” restos.
The financial plight of the sector is the most pressing.
Filippo opened the resto 14 years ago which, he now says, must seem like an “eternity” to some in a trade where some restos open and close within a few years.
But, back when he opened it, things looked quite differently, he says.
“The time has flown by and I love my job. I have a lot of passion for what I do which is just as well because things are getting harder and harder all the time. It is a struggle just to keep going for some,” he said.
The reason for this, he went on, is because people are, since the health pandemic, eating out less now.They spend less when they do eat out and that extends to sales of wine in particular, he notes.
It is why some restos are closing down even though they may often be full.
“The profit margins are that much smaller now,” says Filippo, adding, “you could, for example, take in €100,000 a month but you are doing well even if, from this, you make 3-5 per cent profit.”
“You end up working just to break even.”
He adds, “I do love my job but it is, after all, not a hobby, it is a business and we all have bills to pay. If I wanted a hobby to occupy my time I would go and play tennis.”
His restaurant, as he points out, is now considered something of an “institution” on the eating out scene in Brussels. So much so that he is able to count on the likes of the American ambassador among his loyal and well healed clientele.
“This is why we have survived things like the pandemic and economic downturn while others have not,” says Filippo. “If I was starting out today, though, I am not sure if I could make it.”
“My advice to young people starting out in this trade today is, yes, go with your dream but be fully aware of the difficulties you will face, not least here in Belgium.”
For Rome-born Filippo, the resto is his dream and he says he is “forever grateful” to his adopted “home” of Belgium for giving him the chance to run a successful business.
He came to Belgium, via his native Italy, after an 8 year stint working in the United States where he first honed his culinary skills.
He has brought a touch of real Roman cuisine to Brussels and says he is “always open to new ideas and challenges.”
Who knows what that might involve- possibly a second Osteria Romana in, say, Antwerp? How good would that be…..
For now, anyone who appreciates genuine and authentic quality Italian cuisine should be grateful for this terrific resto at the top of Avenue Louise.
Osteria Romana
Avenue Legrand 11, Brussels
02 648 1395
https://www.osteriaromana.be/
