Pop-up resto showcases Caribbean cuisine

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An innovative scheme that aims to give a much-needed lift to the country’s ailing horeca sector is proving a success.

Kokotte is a horeca incubator, a low-risk, low-cost opportunity to test out a restaurant concept for four months under real-life conditions.

Such an initiative could not come at a better time for the industry which, in some ways, is still struggling badly from a triple whammy of the pandemic, rising costs and also changing eating out habits.

One such success story, though, is called Maracudja which opened in modest premises in Jette…. and is bringing a touch of the Caribbean to Brussels.

This small eatery specialises in Caribbean cuisine, something of a real rarity even in a country that prides itself on the diversity of its many restaurants.

The go-ahead lady behind this place is Noemi Vertueux, who was born on the idyllic Caribbean island of Martinique and wants to not “test the waters” in running her own resto but also introduce some traditional dishes from her homeland to the resto market here.

On both counts she could be said to be making a real success of things.

One good indicator of this is the fact that her “pop-up” resto is often full (so booking is recommended) and not just with locals but from as far away as Mons. They do say good news travels fast and that is certainly the case with Noemi’s place.

The idea behind Kokotte is to give would-be entrepreneurs like Noemi a taste of running their own place,including all the many challenges that that entails.

As she says, “It is a chance to launch yourself on the market.”

The premises currently occupied by Maracudja has itself an interesting back story, having also been a vegetarian and a Vietnamese restaurant before she opened it in January.

Much the same could actually be said for Noemi herself who has arrived on the horeca scene in a roundabout way and from unlikely working origins.

Having left her home island at the tender age of 18 she headed to Toulouse in southern France  where she trained as an engineer in that area’s famous aerospace industry.

Having found her way to Brussels she thought she’d take the plunge and “experiment” with her own resto business.

The good news is that, so far, her courage in “going it alone” has proved a success.

One obvious reason for that is the quality of the food she, aided by her sister Emeline (who’s also responsible for the bright and cheerful artwork that adorns the walls), cooks from her kitchen (which greets you as you enter the resto).

The Maracudja concept offers much more than a simple meal with tropical scents: it is a real invitation to travel to the heart of West Indian culture as soon as you walk through the door of the restaurant. The menu is based on family recipes that pay homage to the richness of West Indian culinary traditions.

Emblematic dishes of the Caribbean islands, such as chicken colombo and cod fritters (commonly called “accras”) are on the card and you get the chance to also discover other lesser-known family dishes, such as “grandma Sylvie’s roasted beef” while another “must-try” of Guadeloupean street food is also present: “bokit au poulet”, a fried and stuffed bread.

The very welcoming and cheerful Noemie works with as many seasonal products as possible and the menu changes regularly. Vegan, vegetarian and lactose-free options have also been designed to meet a growing demand for special diets.

The card is relatively small, containing three starters and five mains , plus three desserts (including le rhum chocolat and “le flan au coco de maman”). Try not to forget to sample one of the very tasty drinks, alcohol and softs, also available.

Considering the mouth-watering quality of these fab dishes, all delicious, the prices are remarkably reasonable – starters from just €6 and mains from a mere €14. Try matching that anywhere else in Brussels.

Noemi told this site, “Our goal is to offer each customer a breath of sunshine as soon as they enter the restaurant, whether through the flavours and scents of our cuisine or through the atmosphere that reigns in the restaurant. The customer must leave in a good mood.”

Her concept was selected from several dozen candidate projects by hub.Brussels, the Brussels incubator which provides professional coaching to people like Noemie who, in her very colourful apron and hoop earrings, is a pleasure to meet.

The only sad thing is that the four-month duration it is subject to means Maracudja – which means “passion fruit” in Creole – will not be around (on its present site near Place du Miroir anyway) after 19 April. The question she will face is: Do I want to continue with this and, if so, where?

But, given that it is doing such a wonderful job promoting the West Indies in Belgium and making West Indian cuisine accessible to all, the aim is hopefully for it to “re-emerge” somewhere else after that date.

It has already built up a loyal customer base in the short time it’s been open so hopefully we will be hearing a lot more about Noemie and her hard working team again in the near future. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Maracudja

288 Avenue de Jette

0489 80 81 10